In the world of tech fabrics, waxed cotton is the old curmudgeon sitting in the corner eyeing up the newcomers with a sceptical look of disdain. Waxed cotton has been around for ages, from the early use of improving the wind-retaining use as sails, to water-repellent outerwear. As these things go, it’s pretty environmentally friendly as well, there are no microplastics being shed, no fluoro-chemicals to be retained in nature and … it’s pretty easy to reproof as well, when the repellency wears off.
My only problem is that a freshly waxed jacket looks nowhere as attractive as a really worn one! This means it boils down to a question of looks over functionality, only solved by having two jackets, where one is waxed to weather storms, the other really worn out and looking great. Not a huge problem, as secondhand waxed jackets such as Barbours, are available in decent condition for a song through the usual secondhand sources.
This isn’t the actual Barbour Border in question, but the patina and wear are very similar to mine.
A Barbour Border with extreme patina
This article though is about a specific one I bought because it looked pretty blinding. A Barbour Border, the longer and more utilitarian version, popular among farmers and outdoorsy folks. This one looked like it had been used daily for years, being dragged through hedges every which way. Top grade patina, as a garmologist would describe it. It even included the furry lining (which is made of acrylic fibres, would be nice to have an actual wool fleece one. Maybe a future easy project?).
Upon arrival at Garms HQ it immediately became apparent though that there was an issue that would be hard to ignore. It absolutely flipping reeked! Apart from beached whales, there is sadly little that can smell as bad as a really ripe old waxed jacket. It was so bad that I couldn’t even unwrap it inside. Now there are a lot of tips floating around regarding how to remove “the odour le vintage” from old clothes, and most of it as total rubbish. Maybe it helps to air for a day or two, hanging in the sun, or popping it in the freezer, but only for the weakest of smells. If it’s a proper reeky old piece there is only one thing that helps: 40 degrees in the washing machine with plenty of detergents. You could add vinegar, but to be honest I don’t think it helps.
Henceforth known as “Aulde Reekie”
This jacket needed two or three proper washes. No express or wool programme, the proper 40-degree standard cotton wash. It came out the wash with the reek removed. It also came out of the wash with something else removed: The wax. And most of the patina. And all the cuts and flaws were also revealed. So, to be generous, at least only a partial success then, and before being washed I was ready to kill it with fire.
Wax can be replaced though, so the big experiment here was to see if I could rewax it and possibly bring back that delightful patina. The rewaxing process can be pretty daunting the first time, but it’s pretty simple really and doesn’t require a huge investment in tools or workspace. There are various brands of wax available, Barbour and Otter are pretty equivalent in being applied as fluids, but Fjällraven has a different type applied as a heated bar, giving a more lightweight waxing.
The cotton coat fabric after two 40 degree washes to remove the reeek.
Heating the tin of wax in a saucepan of water to make it flowable and retain heat.
Let’s give it a fresh wax!
When doing jobs like this I always find it helps to think through what is going to be achieved and how it actually works. For this job, it’s about getting an even and sensible amount of wax over the surfaces, and ensuring wax gets into the folds and seams. A good starting point for success is to keep the wax at the proper temperature to keep it flowing well. It also means care should be taken in distributing the wax and using gentle, circular movements to ensure it is applied from all angles to make sure it’s evenly distributed.
One problem that can quickly become obvious is that the wax will harden almost immediately it is applied to the fabric. It will help if the ambient temperature is higher, but otherwise, this just means there will be work to do with a hairdryer after the coat is suitably covered in wax. Using a lint-free rag, heat and wipe, redistributing the wax and removing the excess, aiming for a uniform surface look.
Wax being applied using a rag.
Wax being applied using a rag.
The problem with using a hairdryer is that you really need either three hands, a helper, or a way to really pin the jacket in place, as trying to use both the heat and the rag at the same time can be quite infuriating. One option would be to use a fan blowing hot air, thus allowing you to work with both hands.
The amount of wax left on the jacket will also determine the finish of the final result. Cover the fabric with a liberal coating and it’ll be quite shiny and longer-lasting. For a more suave and sophisticated city slicker matt look, just allow the wax that has penetrated the fabric to remain and remove most of the rest.
A full coating of wax has been applied all over.
A full coating of wax has been applied all over.
Now, “Aulde Reekie” was roughly speaking as denuded of wax as it could possibly be, so it took a fair amount of wax to cover it. In fact, a whole tin of the Barbour-branded thornproof dressing. How much that was wiped off under the post-application process is hard to say, the rag was pretty soaked, but I think I can safely say that for a jacket that hasn’t been “zeroed” like this one, the amount of wax necessary to replenish the repellency will certainly be a lot less.
While doing a rewax it’s wise to prepare the work surface. I cover it with newspaper, taped together to avoid them shifting or gaping, and mostly wear rubber gloves while working, as it’s not easy to wash the wax off. This also goes for the details of the jacket that you don’t want to be waxed, such as the corduroy collar. Care taken will be massively repaid in later cleanup work avoided.
Outside in the sun, a day after post-wax work.
The fabric is saturated with wax, ensuring water repellency.
In summary, how did rewaxing “Aulde Reekie” work out?
Well, I got rid of the smell, but the wash likely shrunk it a little, so a partial success. Removing the wax meant the fabric was thirsty for lots of fresh wax, so it really lapped it up and it took more than I expected to cover it fully. The patina though, the real point of this jacket, was sadly lost in the process and it now looks more like a new jacket than one with masses of character. Hence, the moral of the story must be that if you’re after a waxed jacket with a properly aged look, find one that doesn’t smell really bad! And if you plan to keep it a long time, try rewaxing it.
In this video I talk more about the Border and Northumbria, rewaxing and the pitfalls of buying an old waxed jacket:
Ah the memory of waxing the trusty Barbours prior to the fishing season, nowadays they go to the factory in South Shields for reproof. Always a good service.
Hi Nick,
Can you add to the post once the border’s been rained on? I’d love to know if the re-waxing takes post wash. I have a cousin of auld reekie who is shunned to the outdoor balcony. I found a fellow in New England who removes Barbour liners, cleans them and sews them back in. I had him give my coat a go and it cut the pungency by about half, but still, the odor arrives before the coat does. I’ve avoided washing it for fear of a re-waxing being less effective post detergent/etc. If your approach works, mines in for the wash of its life:)
Hi Kevin, I’ll do a good shower test on it as soon as I can, and add it to the post! Reekie sends his regards to his cousin and would like mentioned that life without reeking is much more social and pleasant! 🙂
From my experience of owning new and vintage Barbour jackets, the thornproof dressing used on the older jackets has a more waxy consistency which creates better character and patina over time IMO. It also has a strong, distinctive smell. The newer thornproof dressing has almost no smell at all and has a more matte finish that doesn’t give you those nice creases and patina. Not sure when they changed the formula but I prefer the look of older jackets for that reason.
Thanks, James, this makes a lot of sense. I may try using Otter wax next time and see how that looks. I do have a jacket from the collaboration with Norton & Sons from around 5 years ago. As I recall, this was said to be waxed using a soy-based wax (my memory may be wrong). It smells quite distinctly different from regular wax, and it still carries the smell with it. Not entirely unpleasant, but not really very pleasant either!
Nice job! I’ve often wondered about washing mine, as you did, rather than just wiping it down as Barbour tell you to do. Not sure I want to risk shrinking it though….
It certainly helps if you re-wax in the Summer as you don’t need to heat the wax as much, if at all. Barbour jackets aren’t warm so the lining is useful. I like the Solway zipper although the second hand prices can be crazy!
Indeed, any extra warmth will help. A well-directed electric fan is a huge help, freeing up a hand and reducing annoyance. Barbour do have a few distinctive and classic designs, the Solway Zipper being one. The Longshoreman another. I think I might do an article on collectable Barbours, as there are quite a few notable jackets apart from “the usual suspects”!
Yes, that would be interesting. The Longshoreman prices are even crazier than the Solway! I have always wanted to try the made-to-measure wax jackets from Claymore but as I have 3 Barbours already this seems like overkill…
The Longshoreman tends to bring in top money, indeed. Yet compared to the Tokito jackets from 8-9 years back, they are still reasonable. I’ve seen even quite ropey versions of the most popular Tokitos having an asking price of around a thousand pounds, with slight damages and missing the hood!
Great article – I have a ‘barn find’ Belstaff trialmaster professional that I intend to restore. Has anyone here used Belstaff’s complimentary repair and rewaxing service?
Yes I sent mine to Manchester they went above a beyond even replacing the poppers and abit of extra darning for free..plus belstaff wax is loads better than Barbour..
I rewaxed my Barbour using Otter Wax because it is made with beeswax and,”1oo% natural” and available locally (Nokomis Shoe,Minneapolis ,Mn.) It comes as a small cake and after rubbing it on, I hung it in direct sunlight on both sides until the fabric was hot to the touch.It cooled to a dry finish with a nice patina.
I use a hairdryer, but also do the re-waxing on an ironing board covered in a taped up bin bag (to stop the ironing board becoming covered in wax). Using the ironing board means that the jacket stays in place and you apply the wax as if you were ironing. No need to heat up the wax either, as the hairdryer turns it to liquid and stops caking in the creases.
I re-waxed my 1980’s Barbour bought on EBay for £70, it was in great condition with no damage whatsoever, so bit of a bargain.
I used the Barbour wax which I heated in a pan on the gas hob until it was nice and runny, I chose a sweltering hot day in the garden and used a glass topped garden table to work on, I worked the wax on evenly and systematically with a rag and when finished left it hanging on the washing line in the full sun on a hanger.
I was very pleased with the result and im sure it was the hot summers day that helped, so my advice is to re wax in 30+ degrees heat in full sun 🙂
One for here in West Sussex and one in my other place in Wisconsin.
If they are properly waxed they will never fail to perform and will better most modern dwr coated stuff.
The tricks in the liberal use of Barbour thornproof dressing don’t be shy and add plenty the arms are the usual failure point for leaks where they crease and again wax until no more can be applied.
The rear collar seam is the other leaky spot.
Don’t hang them up without a hanger as if like me you tend to stuff the pockets the hang loops will eventually fail.
And get yourself a repair kit their hard to com by but a worthwhile article and repair them as and when they fail.
I have a Solway Zipper that certainly “hums” a bit. Its been reproofed but I dont fancy putting it through the washer. I reckon its about 43 years old now!
I think the Solway was made from around 1950 to sometime in the 80’s? It’s possible to determine roughly by the number of royal warrants and more exactly by the year in the production label, if it’s there. I’m currently trying to get the smell out out if an old Solway, but two careful rounds of wash and lots of rinse in a bucket of less than luke-warm water have got rid of a lot if dirt, all the wax and not much of the smell!
I bought a gorgeous Barbour on eBay but it’s bloody filthy. Not in a cool way, it’s a black jacket, it’s almost like someone went at it with black shoe Polish to bring the colour up. I actually think that’s what happened. It’s so filthy, I can’t wear it in the car it’ll stain anything it touches.. my fingernails and skin get stained from handling it.
I’m at the point where I think it needs a WASH. Now, if you Google ‘how to clean a Barbour Wax’ all you get is ‘don’t wash, no soap, no detergent, no washing up liquid,’ nothing…
You say you’ve machine washed yours – several times, 40kmh, I think I could do mine once on cold, surely…? It’s not the smell, it’s the dirt, it’s rubbed off onto the walls.. I can’t wear it..
Surely a small bit of detergent on cold isn’t going to ruin it??
I’m skeptical of their official care guide, they might well tell you not to do anything to cover themselves, right? ‘No, no, no, nothing’ isn’t realistic.
Try it in a bucket with wool detergent, max luke warm water. Don’t risk the washing machine. The water will tell the story. If they really used shoe polish, it may be wise to cut your losses!
Thank you very much for this post, finally went on with the job – it did take close to 2h…
I had to re-wax a jacket that was washed due to having developed mold in a moist cellar after a year. It was new so I tried all sorts of methods to remove the scent of mould before buying wax.
The wax bought was the Oxford Blue Wax Dressing For Re Waxing Jackets and all Cotton 200ml jar.
I slightly dampened the jacket with a spray bottle, rolled it tightly and let it rest for 15min.
Put the wax in a bain-marie to let it become liquid,
Used a small flat brush with hardly any wax to add the wax around buttons.
Used the same flat brush to go over all seams “drenching” them in wax.
Sponge work – started with the hood to get a feel for the job.
Used a sponge and very lightly dabbed on the wax starting with smaller areas such as collar, pockets etc.
After dabbing an area lightly with wax, changed to clean sponge and worked with downward short strokes and switched to horisontal short strokes to work the wax in well.
When all areas of jacket covered – added a layer on shoulders and part of back, where we get wet!
Massaged the jacket/material with my hand and the wax was lovely for the hands so elbows and heels got a little as well (^o^)
Thinking of using a hair dryer over the jacket to further melt the wax in to the material but as I was in the kitchen and oven was on, I simply opened the oven and hung the jacket over the hot air coming out of the oven.
Hard work to reapply wax to a jacket that was basically stripped from wax but delighted with the result, as close to looking new as possible.
I used 2/3 of the jar with this method and the jacket has now the same stickiness as when new, not more not less and hands benefitted now being soft as peach.
And now – a strong single malt!
Great post Nick! How waterproof did it go? I just bought an old (mint condition) Barbour Burghley “over the knee” coat. Going to use it in Norway and as you know it can pour. Did yours turn out to enough repellent so we can stop using our non-stylish rainjackets?
Really enjoyed reading this especially the reference to an “old curmudgeon sitting in the corner”.
I am about to embark on throwing mine in the wash and would be interested to know if you opted for non-bio or bio?
I think biological detergent is more likely to eat away at the odours and the wax although paraffin wax does not fully melt until 54-56 degrees depending on the grade. However, I understand Barbour add in about 15% beeswax. I have not researched the melting point of beeswax but shall do after typing this.
I was thinking a 30 degree Easy-Care with no spin would be the ideal programme as that is not going to melt the wax. However, the bio / non-bio dilemma is possibly crucial to which way I go.
I hope you can remember what you used.
Also, a powder is more likely to add a small amount of mechanical scrubbing action rather than a liquid whilst it starts to dissolve perhaps.
Hi Nick, great article. I live on the west coast of Ireland and had many modern day jackets, but much prefer my Barbour. I haven’t got a vintage jacket, but will be rewaxing it soon. Just thought you might like to know, there’s a typo where you talk about taping paper to stop it shifting (I think that’s what you meant to say). Gave me a chuckle, as it’s something I’d do 😂🤣 great site 👍
Ah the memory of waxing the trusty Barbours prior to the fishing season, nowadays they go to the factory in South Shields for reproof. Always a good service.
Indeed, it doesn’t the earth to have it done profesionally!
Hi Nick,
Can you add to the post once the border’s been rained on? I’d love to know if the re-waxing takes post wash. I have a cousin of auld reekie who is shunned to the outdoor balcony. I found a fellow in New England who removes Barbour liners, cleans them and sews them back in. I had him give my coat a go and it cut the pungency by about half, but still, the odor arrives before the coat does. I’ve avoided washing it for fear of a re-waxing being less effective post detergent/etc. If your approach works, mines in for the wash of its life:)
Hi Kevin, I’ll do a good shower test on it as soon as I can, and add it to the post! Reekie sends his regards to his cousin and would like mentioned that life without reeking is much more social and pleasant! 🙂
From my experience of owning new and vintage Barbour jackets, the thornproof dressing used on the older jackets has a more waxy consistency which creates better character and patina over time IMO. It also has a strong, distinctive smell. The newer thornproof dressing has almost no smell at all and has a more matte finish that doesn’t give you those nice creases and patina. Not sure when they changed the formula but I prefer the look of older jackets for that reason.
Thanks, James, this makes a lot of sense. I may try using Otter wax next time and see how that looks. I do have a jacket from the collaboration with Norton & Sons from around 5 years ago. As I recall, this was said to be waxed using a soy-based wax (my memory may be wrong). It smells quite distinctly different from regular wax, and it still carries the smell with it. Not entirely unpleasant, but not really very pleasant either!
I also have the Norton X. Beautiful coat. I thought it was beeswax they used on that coat.
Nice job! I’ve often wondered about washing mine, as you did, rather than just wiping it down as Barbour tell you to do. Not sure I want to risk shrinking it though….
I think going to 30 degrees rather than 40 will eliminate shrinking. I may have been a little hasty and desperate to de-reek the flipping thing! 🙂
It certainly helps if you re-wax in the Summer as you don’t need to heat the wax as much, if at all. Barbour jackets aren’t warm so the lining is useful. I like the Solway zipper although the second hand prices can be crazy!
Indeed, any extra warmth will help. A well-directed electric fan is a huge help, freeing up a hand and reducing annoyance. Barbour do have a few distinctive and classic designs, the Solway Zipper being one. The Longshoreman another. I think I might do an article on collectable Barbours, as there are quite a few notable jackets apart from “the usual suspects”!
Yes, that would be interesting. The Longshoreman prices are even crazier than the Solway! I have always wanted to try the made-to-measure wax jackets from Claymore but as I have 3 Barbours already this seems like overkill…
The Longshoreman tends to bring in top money, indeed. Yet compared to the Tokito jackets from 8-9 years back, they are still reasonable. I’ve seen even quite ropey versions of the most popular Tokitos having an asking price of around a thousand pounds, with slight damages and missing the hood!
Great article – I have a ‘barn find’ Belstaff trialmaster professional that I intend to restore. Has anyone here used Belstaff’s complimentary repair and rewaxing service?
Yes I sent mine to Manchester they went above a beyond even replacing the poppers and abit of extra darning for free..plus belstaff wax is loads better than Barbour..
I rewaxed my Barbour using Otter Wax because it is made with beeswax and,”1oo% natural” and available locally (Nokomis Shoe,Minneapolis ,Mn.) It comes as a small cake and after rubbing it on, I hung it in direct sunlight on both sides until the fabric was hot to the touch.It cooled to a dry finish with a nice patina.
I use a hairdryer, but also do the re-waxing on an ironing board covered in a taped up bin bag (to stop the ironing board becoming covered in wax). Using the ironing board means that the jacket stays in place and you apply the wax as if you were ironing. No need to heat up the wax either, as the hairdryer turns it to liquid and stops caking in the creases.
I re-waxed my 1980’s Barbour bought on EBay for £70, it was in great condition with no damage whatsoever, so bit of a bargain.
I used the Barbour wax which I heated in a pan on the gas hob until it was nice and runny, I chose a sweltering hot day in the garden and used a glass topped garden table to work on, I worked the wax on evenly and systematically with a rag and when finished left it hanging on the washing line in the full sun on a hanger.
I was very pleased with the result and im sure it was the hot summers day that helped, so my advice is to re wax in 30+ degrees heat in full sun 🙂
A good used Barbour is always a good buy.
I have two northumbria models.
One for here in West Sussex and one in my other place in Wisconsin.
If they are properly waxed they will never fail to perform and will better most modern dwr coated stuff.
The tricks in the liberal use of Barbour thornproof dressing don’t be shy and add plenty the arms are the usual failure point for leaks where they crease and again wax until no more can be applied.
The rear collar seam is the other leaky spot.
Don’t hang them up without a hanger as if like me you tend to stuff the pockets the hang loops will eventually fail.
And get yourself a repair kit their hard to com by but a worthwhile article and repair them as and when they fail.
How does washing the Barbour in machine affect the machine?
Was there a layer of wax that covered the inside drum?
Not when I did it, though I’d be hesitant to say it would never happen. Plenty of detergent will help.
I use wax oil that I used to underseal the car, paint it on, same feel and smell and costs very little …
I have a Solway Zipper that certainly “hums” a bit. Its been reproofed but I dont fancy putting it through the washer. I reckon its about 43 years old now!
I think the Solway was made from around 1950 to sometime in the 80’s? It’s possible to determine roughly by the number of royal warrants and more exactly by the year in the production label, if it’s there. I’m currently trying to get the smell out out if an old Solway, but two careful rounds of wash and lots of rinse in a bucket of less than luke-warm water have got rid of a lot if dirt, all the wax and not much of the smell!
Enjoyed this piece and comments very much !!
Hi, interesting article!
I bought a gorgeous Barbour on eBay but it’s bloody filthy. Not in a cool way, it’s a black jacket, it’s almost like someone went at it with black shoe Polish to bring the colour up. I actually think that’s what happened. It’s so filthy, I can’t wear it in the car it’ll stain anything it touches.. my fingernails and skin get stained from handling it.
I’m at the point where I think it needs a WASH. Now, if you Google ‘how to clean a Barbour Wax’ all you get is ‘don’t wash, no soap, no detergent, no washing up liquid,’ nothing…
You say you’ve machine washed yours – several times, 40kmh, I think I could do mine once on cold, surely…? It’s not the smell, it’s the dirt, it’s rubbed off onto the walls.. I can’t wear it..
Surely a small bit of detergent on cold isn’t going to ruin it??
I’m skeptical of their official care guide, they might well tell you not to do anything to cover themselves, right? ‘No, no, no, nothing’ isn’t realistic.
Try it in a bucket with wool detergent, max luke warm water. Don’t risk the washing machine. The water will tell the story. If they really used shoe polish, it may be wise to cut your losses!
Thank you very much for this post, finally went on with the job – it did take close to 2h…
I had to re-wax a jacket that was washed due to having developed mold in a moist cellar after a year. It was new so I tried all sorts of methods to remove the scent of mould before buying wax.
The wax bought was the Oxford Blue Wax Dressing For Re Waxing Jackets and all Cotton 200ml jar.
I slightly dampened the jacket with a spray bottle, rolled it tightly and let it rest for 15min.
Put the wax in a bain-marie to let it become liquid,
Used a small flat brush with hardly any wax to add the wax around buttons.
Used the same flat brush to go over all seams “drenching” them in wax.
Sponge work – started with the hood to get a feel for the job.
Used a sponge and very lightly dabbed on the wax starting with smaller areas such as collar, pockets etc.
After dabbing an area lightly with wax, changed to clean sponge and worked with downward short strokes and switched to horisontal short strokes to work the wax in well.
When all areas of jacket covered – added a layer on shoulders and part of back, where we get wet!
Massaged the jacket/material with my hand and the wax was lovely for the hands so elbows and heels got a little as well (^o^)
Thinking of using a hair dryer over the jacket to further melt the wax in to the material but as I was in the kitchen and oven was on, I simply opened the oven and hung the jacket over the hot air coming out of the oven.
Hard work to reapply wax to a jacket that was basically stripped from wax but delighted with the result, as close to looking new as possible.
I used 2/3 of the jar with this method and the jacket has now the same stickiness as when new, not more not less and hands benefitted now being soft as peach.
And now – a strong single malt!
Job well done, congratulations!
Great post Nick! How waterproof did it go? I just bought an old (mint condition) Barbour Burghley “over the knee” coat. Going to use it in Norway and as you know it can pour. Did yours turn out to enough repellent so we can stop using our non-stylish rainjackets?
Thanks! A thorough rewax makes it very waterproof, at least for a while!
Really enjoyed reading this especially the reference to an “old curmudgeon sitting in the corner”.
I am about to embark on throwing mine in the wash and would be interested to know if you opted for non-bio or bio?
I think biological detergent is more likely to eat away at the odours and the wax although paraffin wax does not fully melt until 54-56 degrees depending on the grade. However, I understand Barbour add in about 15% beeswax. I have not researched the melting point of beeswax but shall do after typing this.
I was thinking a 30 degree Easy-Care with no spin would be the ideal programme as that is not going to melt the wax. However, the bio / non-bio dilemma is possibly crucial to which way I go.
I hope you can remember what you used.
Also, a powder is more likely to add a small amount of mechanical scrubbing action rather than a liquid whilst it starts to dissolve perhaps.
Hi Nick, great article. I live on the west coast of Ireland and had many modern day jackets, but much prefer my Barbour. I haven’t got a vintage jacket, but will be rewaxing it soon. Just thought you might like to know, there’s a typo where you talk about taping paper to stop it shifting (I think that’s what you meant to say). Gave me a chuckle, as it’s something I’d do 😂🤣 great site 👍
Hi Simon, thanks for the kind feedback. Yes, I’d missed that unfortunate typo, thanks for letting me know 😁
Try an emzine based spray called Folex for spot treatment. Not the whole coat, the colour will bleed out.