The Garmsman Dozen #5: Daniel from Sweden

Welcome to the fifth instalment of the “Garmsman Dozen” question and answer session. The response so far has been tremendous. Did you miss earlier ones? There are links at the end of the page.

This week we welcome to the Garmsman Dozen Daniel from Sweden!

Who are you, where do you live and what interests you?

Hi! I’m Daniel, otherwise not very known as The Continental Op on Instagram! I’m 40(ish) years old, living in central Stockholm, although I take my escape up north to the woods of Dalarna every chance I get (fresh air and all that). For a long time, you could find me at the university, taking every subject not leading to actual employment or career that I could find. I’m a certified sommelier (way back) and have a PhD in Social Anthropology and a BA in Cultural Studies so now I’m the Head of IT Operations working for a big Swedish company. All very logical…

Besides clothes and boots, I love hanging over my guitar crooning depressing songs about lost causes that my dog (and only he) really appreciate. I also have a special love for Tottenham Hotspur and turtles. Nothing odd about that, right?

Thinking back to your childhood, what were your most memorable or favourite clothes?

I had this awesome set of army green vintage rain clothes when I was about ten years old that I loved! I wore those or my beige Fjällräven jacket even to the beach. I also had this really seventies style T-shirt in orange and brown which I wore Donald Duck-style, without pants and underwear. As luck has it I grew out of that habit when I was four…
My grandmother was a seamstress and worked in the 30s with her brother who was a tailor in Stockholm. She made a lot of clothes for my grandpa, my mum and her sister and much of those clothes are still around, carefully mended over the years. The problem was that they were of such great quality that I refused to wear the new clothes that my mum and dad bought for me. On one famous occasion, I threw my new ugly stocking cap on the fire after they brought it home saying that it was only good for grilling sausages. I was five at the time…
She also made this doll with the coolest denim outfit, from cap to jacket and jeans! He was called Kalle and would match any old vintage Bobby Lee doll. Probably the reason you sometimes can see me like this:

How would you describe your style today, and what are your influences?

A bit of Swedish for you here; pyttipanna! Two things seem to be ubiquitous, a cap of some sort, and a pug. Film noir and westerns have always been big influences as well as navy and air force clothes from WWII.
Robert Mitchum in Out of the past (except the ridiculously big late 40s suits!). Swoon!  Oh, by the way, IT’S UNCOOL TO SMOKE! Well, if you´re not Mr Mitchum that is.

How do you think others would describe your style and garments, do you get any reaction from friends and random strangers?

Haha, I get daily reactions at work! Other managers tend to be wearing Dressman suits whereas I go for vintage/vintage looking workwear. That always puts new colleagues ill at ease for some reason. Every time I wear something new it’s quite the talk of the office, which I rather enjoy. I’ve heard everything from “gubbkläder” (Old mans clothes) to ”rail worker” to hipster. Those who called me a hipster now work somewhere else nursing their remaining limbs.

Strangers stare behind my back, I’m much too big for them to stare when I see them…;)
YOU LOOKING AT ME? Lol.

YOU LOOKING AT ME? Lol

When looking for clothes, what factors play into your selections? (Actual need, style, brand name, popular, trendy, ethical production, price, discount, colour etc)

I love supporting startups or people who just love the stuff they’re making themselves! Joe “Work and War” is a great example. So is Simon James Cathcart. Since most shopping is done through “that trend” the internet, it’s hard to estimate the quality, but that the stuff will age well when worn is essential. And ethical production is extremely important, although still hard for me as a customer to have full insight in. Nicks post about “Ventile” was a great eye opener, I can easily get stuck in the romance of an idea and have problems looking further. Some brands I only buy when there is a sale to be honest. Some shit are just insanely expensive (ever heard of Mister Freedom…?)

 When putting together an outfit combination, do you spend a lot of time considering it?

I do! I’m awful at combining stuff! Usually, when outfits work it’s just a lucky coincidence. And I’m taking ages deciding what to wear which drives the missus insane. It has to go with my general mood for the day….. Good thing that modern men have such great contact with their feelings…! Right.
My manservant Jeeves is a great help, always willing to give great tips for what to wear tomorrow:

Most garmsmen will have a few “grail items” in their collection. Not to out you, but if your house is burning, which garments do you grab?

Really Nick, I’d grab my dog and my missus, not any bloody garments! (Ok, the coat and suit that my grandma made for my grandpa in the early 1940s would probably get some serious rescue attempts as well. )

Are you budget-conscious or spendthrift? Are you a single-shot shopper, or go large and buy bulk? Where are you on slow-fashion and buying less?

I don’t like buying things just to get a kick, but I have to admit that I sometimes do. I justify, to myself, buying more expensive stuff because it’s hopefully made to last. And if I get tired of it, I can sell it or give it away instead of buying and throwing away heaps of shitty stuff from H&M. I’m not a hoarder, but I like having a lot of clothes to choose from. One outfit for every mood and I have goddamn many different moods! I love being able to support small growing craftsmen or companies.

Having a large collection of clothes can lead to changing outfit on a daily basis, but if you were going to wear a single outfit the next two weeks, what would it be?

That would be a real challenge! I haven’t worn the same outfit for two days in a row since I was young and slutty. But; my trusty Aero leather jacket, a Buzz Rickson Chambray shirt with a Real McCoy’s sweatshirt and my absolute favourite jeans from Simon James Cathcart. And a mechanics cap on the top and my OakStreet Bootmakers Trench boots on my feet! Just so damn comfortable! Something like this?

What would you never wear?

Sorry, but what I have seen from G-Star and their branding just makes me ill and grumpy every time. And I’ll never go MAMIL!!!!!! I actually work out in cotton sweatshirt and sweatpants. Also skinny pants just doesn’t work for me. I’m shoe size 12 uk so when I look down I only see my huge feet…! But as everyone knows, big feet means big… boots.

Do you have a dream garment you’d love to own?

Have you seen Vibergs repro of Mallorys boots? It’s just a stupid hookup! But still……

Anyone that buys clothes will have made mistakes, what is your most memorable bad buy?

Ok. There’s a pattern for this; Pants. That. Are. Too. Small. I try to blame Japanese sizing and all that but let’s face it. I’m not built like I was when I was 21 anymore, and I keep forgetting it!

And oh, anything that’s yellow. I never ever wear it, but for some reason, I still buy clothes in that horrible colour sometimes.

Who are your favourite Instagram profiles?

Oi! Leading question your honour! Ok. I love that Norwegian guy, Well Dressed Swag or something..? E_nucky is just an icon whatever he does. Workandwar is always a good inspiration!
And I try not to just get stuck in the “rugged men’s wear” genre, some bands and artists really have a great community feeling around their social media accounts, like the band Calexico.

Does your interest in clothes influence other aspects of your life?

Could I turn that around? My interest in Film Noir and old Westerns have really influenced the way I dress! Following good looking peeps on Insta has given me some new real-life friends, all over the world.

If your clothes need repairs or alterations, do you do it yourself?

Some easy stuff, yes. The missus is really good with the needle and thread so I try to learn as much as I can from her. Rumours say that I’m a lousy student though, and I say dirty words every time I hurt myself on the needle…..

How do you see your style evolving going forwards?

You mean except getting even bigger sizes each year……? 

How do you think trends such as denim and heritage style will evolve and survive? What will be the next big thing?

Things and trends tend to go round in circles so I guess shitty plastic clothes made to last just a couple of hours before you throw them away will be The Next Big Thing! And the 80s seems to fascinate people who didn’t have the bad luck of growing up then, so I guess 80s fashion will get its umpteenth revival in Sweden…

Seriously, I think the trend for locally made, good quality stuff will only get stronger. At least I hope it will!

Do you have a good style or garment based story?

No, but I’m not ashamed to tell you that my dad was a REALLY HUGE fan of the so-called Cosby sweater in the 80s, and I still wake up with nightmares about those from time to time…

Thank you, Daniel!

4 Comments

  • Roland Novak 18/03/2018 at 13:38

    Great Daniel! Love the Mitchum and film noir inspiration!!

    Reply
  • Daniel 18/03/2018 at 15:12

    Thanks Roland! Great to read about you as well!
    And thanks Nick for showing interest in your fellow instagrammers 🙂

    Reply
  • enoch bayrd 19/03/2018 at 01:24

    Very good mate. Who knew you could be so funny ??

    Reply
    • Daniel 19/03/2018 at 18:42

      Thanks amigo. When you look like me you better be funny as hell…! ?

      Reply

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