Another classic jacket on the review bench today, the Cordings x Grenfell Shooter, a design first available in the 1940’s. For reasons that will become clear, I have divided this post into 4 parts. Let us proceed.
The history of Grenfell and Cordings
There is a lot of history combined in one jacket here. The maker, Grenfell, has it’s roots back to 1923 when intrepid explorer and doctor Sir Wilfred Grenfell met mill owner Walter Haythornthwaite and asked about having a cloth made that was dense and strong enough to keep wind and water out, yet permeable to allow perspiration out. In other words the perfect fabric to make rugged outdoor clothing from. The resulting cloth was made from long fibered Egyption cotton, tightly woven to such a density that it proved problematic to dye the resulting cloth. They worked out the snags though and Grenfell cloth has been made for almost 100 years now.
If 100 years seems like a long time, it’s nothing compared to how long Cordings of Piccadilly have been around. The first Cordings shop was established by John Charles Cording in London in 1839. By all accounts a very long time ago, and the history is continuous since then (in fact, read the Cordings history on their website, it’s fascinating read). Remember the famous quote “Doctor Livingstone, I presume?”, well Cordings supplied equipped explorer Sir Stanley when he set off to find the Doctor in Africa. They moved the shop to Piccadilly in 1877, which to all intents and purposes is where it still is today.
The style of the Grenfell Shooter
As mentioned, the design hails back to the 1940’s, which not coincidentally was around the time the first modern military field jacket was introduced. The M-43 had a lapels, big pockets and a buttoned front, not unlike the Shooter. The obvious influence is in the generous pockets and strong utilitarian features. It’s probably not far wrong to describe it as a civilian field jacket, with a combination of functionality and style, suitable for gentlemanly pursuits of the outdoors and hunting sort.
This is a recreation of the original jacket, in the same British-made Grenfell cloth, to the same design and fit. There are three outside pockets, the lower bellows pockets with eyelets to allow water to escape. There are two inside pockets, one chest pocket mirroring the outside chest pocket, and one “game pocket”. The game pocket is quite sizeable, waterproofed and removable for cleaning. Suitable for storing small game or a decent sized salmon in, if such is your wish.
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- The Grenfell Shooter can be worn with or without belt.
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- The classic logo of Grenfell Cloth.
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- Vents under arms.
The collar is a good size and can be turned up to keep the wind out, with both a top button and a throat tab to batten things down. It has the traditional removable belt and the cuffs are elasticated to stop the wind blowing up the arms.
The construction of the jacket
Grenfell cloth is no doubt similar to other tightly woven cotton fabrics such as Ventile, though Grenfell claim there are no water repellent chemicals involved. Regardless, the best way to make jackets from cloths like this is to use a double layer. If the outer layer get’s wet and swells, the inner layer will protect the wearer from feeling clammy, a common complaint from users of single layer Ventile jackets. It’s gratifying to see just how comprehensively this jacket has been made in double layers, it’s basically a jacket inside a jacket.
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- Polished and branded horn buttons.
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- Elasticated cuffs to keep wind out.
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- Waterproof and removable game pocket.
I’ve gushed profusely about Grenfell quality before, so I’ll be brief this time. Grenfell are without a doubt in my top of three jacket makers, and I’m not totally sure who would fill the other two places. The work put into it is flawless. The seams are straight the horn buttons polished and properly attached. Notable there are also vent holes in the arm pits to aid ventilation. It’s also been made using the same production methods as the original.
Finally, it’s been given a launder to give it a slightly used look and feel. A brand new vintage jacket really. Which makes a lot of sense, as the style is currently enjoying something of a revival and vintage jackets in pukka condition have increased dramatically in price.
The Grenfell Shooter in use
What’s it like in use, you ask? It’s a little different to my other jackets, what with it being more obviously vintage sporting style. I don’t go hunting, though I do spend time in the woods with the dogs. The Shooter is a great fit, and with room for a wool sweater inside it is a versatile jacket for the seasons where the weather is unpredictable. At the same time as it has useful utilitarian features though, it also has enough style to be used in modern urban environments.
I’ve been caught in the rain, and even snow, while wearing it and there was no sign of water penetrating neither cloth nor seams, so so far the Grenfell cloth delivers on it’s promise.
All in all, a handy piece of outerwear.
- Available from Cordings of Piccadilly
- Made in London
- Price 600 pounds
Looks best without the belt. It’s a very well-made jacket. I think, though, being a rugged Westerner who lives in the mountains of New Mexico, I’d rather spend that $800+ on a good goretex jacket/rain pants and have money left over to purchase the waterproof Wild Things rucksack for my daughter’s 24-hour search and rescue pack. ?
Looking good. Just need a few street lamps to light amidst a 1940s smog?! Dapper gear.
Very nice post as well as jacket. Do you think this jacket would be suited for wearing while walking in the Lake District? (Warm enough, etc.)
It’s rain and windproof and you’ll certainly look the part. A Fairisle sweater will provide wamth, or daresay an Islender?
Thanks for your reply. Most kind of you. As for type of sweater, it’ll have to be an Islender as Fairisle sweaters are too hard to come by. (There are some available here: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=682 but the sizes are much too limited.)
I like the look of these from Campbells of Beauly. Reasonably priced, nice-looking and made in Scotland. Fairisle jumpers.
Hello, I wondered what size you picked up (and also how tall you are).
Cheers from Paris
I have a size 42, usually a 42 inch chest and 172 cm tall. It’s quite roomy, so I think it’s possible to size down for a more fitted sizing.
Thank you for your answer, really helps me a lot before ordering mine.
Nice blog by the way for a well dressed dad !
Thank you!
Have you used this jacket under a good downpouring? Does it “survive” a good rain storm without getting wet? And another question, what would you say is the lowest temperature you can put this jacket on? I am seriously considering buying it but living in the Low Countries, I am always confronted with (cold) hard rain.
Thanks for your very interesting blog!
Thanks for the kind feedback!
I think I’ve only used it in rain of medium intensity, mainly due to there not being a hood. At least so far the rain just forms droplets and runs right off. It’s harder to say whether this is due to the tight weave of the gabardine-like fabric or whether there is some form of repellant used. The jacket itself has no insulation apart from being lined, so the warmth is primarily down to what you wear underneath. I have room for a medium weight wool jumper, so I’d say down to -5C would be fine. The jacket itself does a sterling job of keeping the cold wind out, so no worries there.
Thanks for your fast reply!
Would you care to suggest a jacket that in your opinion would fulfil the triple feat of being waterproof, elegant and insulated?
Keep up the good work!
This depends very much on the temperature range you want to cover and budget. Being able to add insulation by way of wool jumpers makes it a lot easier, but I don’t think you’ll find a jacket that truly covers, say -25C to +5C (which would be the range I see here in a usual winter!).
Thanks Nick, I was more thinking about -5° to +10°C. Specially for cold ice rain about -2°C to +2°C.