Think of huge clothing companies, you know, the like of H&M and Zara. They make billions of garments, employ thousands of people, make whopping amounts of money and have their product made in faceless factories wherever will make it cheapest. Then move your thoughts right down to the other end of the scale. Consider what it’s like if a company makes just enough garments, employs a bare minimum of people, make just enough money and have their product made in factories they actually visit and work closely with.
If you’ve been following this blog for a while, you’ll be on board with the second variant here. I like to think of them as the sort of company that makes pieces they care about, filling a gap they feel should be filled, selecting components based on other properties than cost, eschewing massive profit in favour of a more ethical approach. Now this could all be total hipster wank, and no doubt in many cases it is, but there is also something very alluring about those companies that are genuine. I’ve met up with a few of them, and when I was in London recently I had the opportunity to meet up with Tim, the charming gent behind new brand Paladrin.
So, over a couple of cups of warm drink in a noisy London coffee shop we sat down for a good natter about the state of menswear and what Paladrin brings from the cutting table. Tim is new to the garment game, but from his trade as a graphic designer he brings a keen eye for what works. Thinking about it, designing clothes is very much a graphic design. He enlists help from friends in other fields to help out as needed. And then there is the factory in London, close enough to work closely with. This has resulted in a first collection of 5 jackets and 7 shirts, shared over three designs in each category.
The designs are based on solid, classic workwear silhouettes, boxy cuts. Sparse on fancy details, but strong on being rugged and very well made. My nerdy eyes immediately appreciate that all the seams are properly felled and finished. Fabric-wise the ruggedness continues with the classics, denim, moleskin, wool and corduroy. Mostly in darker colours, but the yellow jacket certainly brightens the vista on a grey day!
I did mention the items being well made. Combine this with the quality fabrics and you have a good product. If you combine that with a competitive and realistic pricing and you have a winner. And in this respect Paladrin have got it right with the first collection. Working directly with the factory, cutting out the blood-sucking middleman and handling sales directly, means that everyone involved earns what they need to earn and the customer still gets a great deal. Much like other great London companies such as SEH Kelly work.
It’s something of a reminder really to experience the classic fabrics. So much today is just cotton, or cotton blend, with little or no structure or character. I strongly believe corduroy is due a massive comeback. Hopefully not in a fashion way, but at least to be appreciated by adult males looking for quality garments. Moleskin is another almost forgotten fabric that should be very much more appreciated. My navy Moriss shirt feels incredibly cosy and soft. A little warm for summer days, but bring on the chill and I’ll be living in it.
The garments are very generously sized, and not available in the smallest sizes, so waifs need not apply around these ways. I’m wearing medium, the smallest size available. I would suggest looking at the sizing chart carefully.
Shirts and jackets available now from Paladrin.co
[…] arranged to meet Tim, of new brand Paladrin, for a chat about starting up a new menswear brand. I posted seperately about this a week or two […]