I know, I’ve been late in delivering the next iteration of the Waistcoat Project. To be honest, this one caused me so much trouble it almost sunk the entire project. The Singer just totally refused to do the buttonholes for me. So much so that I’ve since invested in a vintage Singer for future buttonhole duties.
Full frontal view of Version Four
The issues with the buttonhole did force a design change underway in construction, which I think has improved on what was a very clean design by adding more details. I love the details, it’s what takes an average waistcoat to the next level of waistcoat goodness.
See how nicely the stripes match up over the shoulders? A small detail that may never be noticed when in use, yet very satisfying to observe.
This is the first waistcoat since the gratuitous floral overload of Version One to feature the same fabric front and back. This is normally what I look for in a waistcoat, none of the silly silky back-pieces for me. The thin stripes of this heavy duty cotton twill added the challenge of aligning the stripes on the various pieces, but I am rather proud of my workmanship in this respect, and taking that extra care does make difference to the connoisseur.
Fully lined pockets, naturally.
Another 3 patch pocket variant. Why patch pockets? They’re the easiest to get right, that’s why. I’ll probably move up to other variants later. Nicely lined using the same lining as the inside, and the shape has evolved into a rounded version. Less practical than the smartphone shaped and sized previous versions, but they look like more design has gone into them.
And more floral lining. I like it.
The floral lining is still with us, in another vivid variant from the archives of WDG. The cotton lining, although not visible to most onlookers, brings a smile to my face whenever I see it. No reason not to add that bit of flair, right?
Rear cinch again of the buttoned variety.
Since the button rear cinch has been such a success, I’ve gone with that again on this one. I am on the lookout for decent hardware to do a more traditional variant, but so far all I’ve come up with is cheap rubbish. And we don’t deal in rubbish her at the Well Dressed Waistcoat Labs.
The two lowest buttonholes.
All that’s left is to explain the thinking behind the front. A plain front would have been expected. Just add 5 buttonholes, and be done. That was my plan, and it would have been quite good. With the sewing machine having other ideas, I struggled and struggled to make buttonholes, but every single time they were messed up. Stitches can be undone, and were undone, so many times that the fabric wore thin. I was in such a blue funk after a couple of dozen busted buttonholes that I had to call time-out and pack the projects away for a while.
The two top buttonholes, with chest pocket. Added buttonhole on pocket to allow for a decorative flower or other malarkey.
In the end I took a fresh piece, added perfect buttonholes, and then spliced that into the front-piece. And it looks like I had it planned that way from the start. All is well that ends well.
Bottom rear detail, as has become a signature touch. This shows what a total bastard it is to sow parallel lines. Better to use a twin needle!
Eagle-eyed readers will notice an anomaly with this one, and no, it’s not the occasionally scrappy stitching. I’ll leave it as a small contest, ok?
Oh, and if you’re wondering where the modelled photos are this time, the explanation is that this one didn’t really fit me all that well. I’ve either shrunk, or I’ve started making my waistcoats larger. The inquiry is ongoing as to why this may be!
The stripes in the fabric almost become an optical illusion when the darts are made.
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Do you have the pattern for this?
It could be pattern 2447 by McCalls. Easily available on eBay. I’d suggest this post where I mention more: https://welldresseddad.com/2014/06/07/so-youd-like-to-sew-your-own-clothes/