The Garmsman Dozen #6: Enoch from the USA

Reading Time: 9 minutes

Welcome to the sixth instalment of the “Garmsman Dozen” question and answer session. The response so far has been tremendous. Did you miss earlier articles? There are links at the bottom of this page.

This week we welcome Enoch from the USA!

Name: Enoch Bayrd aka Nucky, 37
Instagram: E_nucky
Location: San Diego, Ca
Job:  Re-Sale clothing shop
Hobbies: History (military, and seedy side of life), I love reading, smoking my pipes, watching film and documentaries, old-world architecture, Beer. 

How would you describe your style today and what are your influences?

In one word ‘MiliApaches’. What does ‘Miliapahes’ mean? Well I’d say I love vintage European military wear from the 1900s-1940s, I like that they are hardwearing items but with a touch of class. Military wear from Europe have a dressy touch to them but also can go through the wringer. Apaches? Les Apaches of Paris France, were in a word hoodlums who terrorized Belle Epoque Pairs(the 1900s). I love the ‘romantized’ idea of criminals and bank robbers/outlaws/gangs that took their lives into their own hands and lived it full throttle.  
Basically, I mix vintage euro military items, with an L’Apache touch, red scarf and a La Deffe (French flat cap). 
So I’d say that my influences are Gangsters, workers, and military, of the early 20 Century Century. 

When looking for clothes, what factors play into your selections?

Let’s start off with Vintage(1900-1940s). One of my loves is High waisted trousers. My saying is ‘The higher the waist, the closer to heaven’. There is a lack of true high waisted trousers in this time of ‘low rise’ pants, it is very hard to find 12” rise and up, so that is why I love vintage trousers they were made to actually sit at the waist. I love the uniqueness of vintage clothes the different prints they came up with the high quality that went into the garments. In the day of ‘fast fashion’, which I find to be a disgusting phrase it is hard to find well-made clothes, that are made to last. Vintage is made to last, that is why they are is still around. Don’t get me wrong we are now in a ‘golden age’ with the coming of ‘Heritage’ brands, there is a resurgence of good quality, good material, the idea of an item lasting a lifetime. Brands such as Mister Freedom (which got me into Les Apaches), Fleurs De Bagne, Simon James Cathcart, Papa Nui, and Work and War, just to name a few my favourites, take quality, the love of history, sourcing the best material, into their love for what they are making. 

When putting together an outfit combination, do you spend a lot of time considering it?

Surprisingly, no it does not take me very long at all. I’m pretty much gussied up in 15min. I wake up, have my coffee ease myself into the day, look into my closet and there it is, I intuitively reach for what I want for the day. Honestly, for me style is easier than expressing myself with words, the outfits come very naturally.

 Does your interest in clothes influence other aspects of your life?

I find that it is more what I’ve read or watched, that influences my style. Whether it be an old photo I’ve seen, what book I’ve read that leads me into a certain dress. The clothes seem to be the end result of what I’m interested in at the time. Whether it be watching, ‘Gangs of NewYork’, ‘Lawrence of Arabia’, ‘Casque d’Or’, or reading a book on WWI/WWII, French convicts on ‘Devils Island’, these all find a way of injecting themselves into my style and my daily life. 

Most garmsmen will have a few “grail items” in their collection. Not to out you, but if your house is burning, which garments do you grab?

This question hurts my soul. Every item I own I have a love for so this will take some thinking since the house is not yet in ashes…I suppose I would grab my 1930’s leather cyclist jackets. I love early European leather, namely French and German. 

Do you have a dream garment you’d love to own?

So many dreams, so little money. I’ll pick one if I must. A 1930’s early ’40’s French leather cycliste short jacket, like Jean Gabin wears in ‘Le Jour Se Leve’. This jacket is my holy grail of leather jackets. I love the waist-high cut, the contrasting zipper tape, the brown leather, the big collar, yes this is my Grail.

What would you never wear?

For me I could never wear anything that was made for mass consumption, it is a poison, that affects many. Clothes made for ‘fast fashion’ is a plague on society. Small hands bleed to stitch a garment that will be thrown away for the next trend. The ‘On Trend’ industry pays little mind to the children, families that they employe not even paying them enough to eat, let alone the long hours and horrid conditions they work in.  

How do you think others would describe your style and garments, do you get any reaction from friends and random strangers?

This is a funny question being that I live in San Diego, the causal centre of the USA. San Diego is the land of shorts and sandals, two things that I never wear. Surprisingly I get quite a bit of positive reactions, but there is just as much, who is this guy. People tend to think this “guy is a little over the top, maybe he is a re-enactor” or ‘Is this guy lost, you are in the wrong decade(compliment)”. Many people find it cool and interesting, that I’d wear this stuff, “hey man you remind me of my grandpa(perfect). In the end, I have a blast with peoples reactions. 

What are your best tips for buying?

Spending hours on eBay. Most people do not have the patience for this but if you spend enough time you can find great deals. There are so many things on eBay that people are bound to miss, and then you get a great deal. Also, have great friends(thank you Instagram). 

Do you have style icons, historic or current?

Daniel Day-Lewis in ‘Gangs of New York’. The cast of ‘Peaky Blinders. French hero’s Django Reinhardt, and Jean Gabin. Film and style icon, Erich Von Stroheim. Christophe Loiron of Mister Freedom, and Mika of Fleurs De Bagne, these two make clothing that I love to wear and that works seamlessly with my style and have awoken my love for the underworld of 1900-1930s France. Lastly, my friend @wilhelmzeppelin(Instagram) everything he owns I want and he wears it like a badass.

Having a large collection of clothes can dead to changing an outfit on a daily basis, bit if you were going to wear a single outfit the next two weeks, what would it be?

Hmmm… Okay, okay, my 1940’s WWII Swedish grey henley shirt, Mister Freedom Pantalon Apache in grey covert stripe, my Harris tweed flat cap, my 1930’s Elephant brand polka dot bandana (around my neck), my 1930’s German double-breasted leather cyclist jacket, and my 1940’s German leather boots.
Thank you, Enoch!
Did you miss the first Garmsman Dozens?

PS: If you have suggestions for participants, let me know. Or have your mother suggest you, if you’re a bit keen to suggest yourself. My email is WellDressedDad (@) gmail.com

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2 Comments

  • Roland Novak 25/03/2018 at 10:31

    Finally some secret is unveiled 👍👍😜😜 Great Messieur Enoch!!

    Reply
    • enoch bayrd 25/03/2018 at 15:08

      Thank you, Roland! To think I was going to take my secrets to the grave, hahaha…

      Reply

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