It was suggested to me that after another year of looking at, writing about, and, almost as an afterthought, actually wearing clothes, maybe I should give a mention to some of my favourite pieces of the year? Which garments are the ones I liked best, at the end of the day? Did the initial crush turn into a lasting appreciation?
Casting around in my memories of the year past there was a certain colour that kept coming up. A distinct blue. Not an indigo, per say, but a brighter, more sky-like blue. The colour of woad from Southern France, mixed in a pot, fermented and used to dye a cotton calender fabric woven in Britain. Cotton calender? That’s like a regular cotton fabric, but hammered all over so you get a smooth, flat surface.
You can already tell that this is something with a fair bit of that elusive different added to it. The dye, the fabric, the fact that it’s made in the UK, and of course, the design is quite different as well. It’s an oversized shirt, comfortable of fit and not something you’d be wanting to wear a tie with. The cuffs are so simple they’re almost not there, almost reduced to just a button. The collar is similarly minimal, reduced to a collar of sorts.
Yet the pockets go quite the other way, being wide, deep and symmetrical. This is something of a Tender trademark, as the Dart jacket I reviewed before has similarly huge pockets. Oh, I hadn’t mentioned yet that this was a Tender shirt? Sorry. It’s the “Tender Type 470 Stock Collar Shirt, in Woad Calender” to give it’s full and technically cryptic name.
And those pockets really make the shirt. Since it arrived I used it a lot, if WDW hadn’t nicked it. Yes, this is one of those items I found had a huge WAF (wife acceptance factor), so there was an internal struggle to use it. I did get to take it on a travel to Delhi though, and to the UK. Those pockets are marvellous for keeping documents and suchlike in when travelling.
And those simple, two-hole melamine buttons. Again, reduced to the bare essential.
To answer the question posed at the start (or one of them, at least), did the initial crush turn into a deep appreciation? It sure did. This one is a keeper.
PS: The colour of the shirt is most accurately shown on the Instagram photos. I’m a mediocre photographer at best and I was unable to reproduce the vibrant blue inside!
UPS:
- A unique and useful style
- It’s undeniably different
- Thoughtfully designed and produced
- Made in Britain
DOWNS:
- The quirkiness and British production has it’s price (though see under!)
SCORE:
PRICE:
Full retail price is 195 pounds at New State Store. Currently on offer at 156 pounds.
I have only recently happened across your website and very impressed I am too!
Question – with all these Japanese heritage brands (made in Japan, US, UK or otherwise) why is it that I can’t find anything that fits me, shirts and jackets in particular?! It’s very frustrating. I love the Tender gear, but the sizing is ridiculously small. I ordered an XL shirt the other week from Superdenim and could just about button it up. It was so tight under the armpits. I wouldn’t say that I’m unusually big (6’2″ tall with a 46 chest) but surely if you’re selling to a European and US market, your up the sizing a bit!!!
Thanks for the kind feedback, Mark! One of the problems with Japanese market gear is that there is a certain difference in size between the Japanese and Europeans, so unless they have made then in large sizes, the Japanese XL will be more like a Euro medium. With regards to Tender, well that’s not Japanese at all, but designed and made in the UK. Sizing can be a potshot though, I’ll agree on that. I’d just drop William Kroll a mail and ask him direct. He IS Tender and will be able to help. His email is william@madebytender.com. Best of luck! Oh, and read my piece on sizing 🙂 https://welldresseddad.com/2016/01/16/is-your-body-an-industry-standard-size/
Thanks for the prompt reply!
My main issue is that Tender is a UK company, so why not make U.K. sizes instead of Japanese sizes?!! What do they perceive as their main market and where will they mainly be seeking their wares? UK/Europe or Japan?
On the flip side, E.G. and Post O’lls fit me ok, just about. But then EG have at least had the forethought to include XXL in their range, something which many others haven’t.
Tender do make UK sizes. Or rather, they are not clearly medium, large or extra-large, but numbered from 2-5 (as I recall). I think the translation from number to usual sizing may not be entirely clear, though again, check with William for the official version. Tender do sell a lot to Japan, though I don’t think you could say they do Japanese sizes.