How to improve upon brogue perfection through resoling!

Reading Time: 7 minutes

If you think back to a week or to before Xmas, you’ll recall that I reported on the stroke of luck I had in finding a pair of Custom Grade Chetwynd brogues by Church in my local Salvation Army charity shop. A truly remarkable find, and even more remarkable in that they were my size as well. A pair of shoes that normally retail for around 400 pounds, lightly used and only 25 pounds. Rare luck indeed! And given that these are the first halfway decent pair of shoes I’ve seen in this shop in 4 years, I think the chance is slim of a repeat find.

church3

The brogues as found, before any attentions.

Anyhow, while the shoes themselves were magnificent examples of quality British brogues, I wasn’t too happy with the leather sole. A trial run round the house showed that they were slippy on hard wood flooring, and I’m really not convinced leather soles are the right thing for my sort of usage. I use my shoes, and you never know when it will rain. Considering I already have 2 pairs of Grenson brogues with commando soles, this time I wanted something different. A bit of research (and consulting with shoe maestro Scratch) convinced me that classic Dainite soles would be a nice choice for these.

church5

Lightly worn original leather soles

British brogues deserve the attention of a proper and experienced shoemaker, and where better to find one than in Great Britain? I had previously taken notice of Shoehealer in Doncaster, being both a shoemaker and seller of an astonishing range of quality shoes. I popped an email to them asking for a quote and received a very favourable reply. So off the Churches went, back over the ocean, to be treated to new soles.

Richard, partner of Shoehealer, kindly agreed to document the process (as I was incredible curious as to what would be done to my shoes), so I’ll let him take over from here.

Thank you, Richard and Anthony, you did a truly excellent job on my lucky brogues!

‘Your Shoes’ with the original Leather Sole fitted and part worn, and now at Shoehealer in the UK having the leather sole replaced with a more durable Rubber ‘Dainite’ Sole.

shoe1

All shoes will have a ticket attached, detailing the customers name, and details of the work required.

 

 

This model, the ‘Chetwynd’ would usually have a Single Leather Sole fitted. In this instance, we created a thin leather Mid-Sole, to serve as a base for the new Dainite Sole. This Mid-Sole was created by scouring down the original Leather Outsole to around 2.5mm.
This was possible as the original Leather Sole had very little wear. If the original sole was worn too far, we could have fitted a new leather Mid-Sole.
Adding the Mid-Sole will increase the durability and make the shoe a little more sturdy without upsetting the balance or weight of the shoe.
The pictures show the original Heel Blocks removed, which are discarded.

shoe4

All of the original Welt stitching is removed and ‘Contact Adhesive’ applied. The Dainite soles are bonded in place, before being ‘rough trimmed’ ready for the Welt Stitching.
shoe5
With the Soles Stitched in place (Shoehealer use a Goodyear Outsole Stitching Machine), the Heel part and the Leather Heel Stacks have ‘Contact Adhesive’ applied, before the Heel Stacks are carefully positioned.
shoe6
 The shoes are them placed on a ‘Press’, which applies pressure of around 3.5 Bar (147 psi) which ensures every part of the Heel Block is firmly in place.
shoe7
shoe8
shoe9
shoe10
The Heel Blocks are ‘Rough Trimmed’ and ‘Ring Shank’ (serrated) Nails are used to add extra security to the Heel Black. These Nails are fixed using a ‘Long Tube Heel Attatcher’.
shoe11
shoe12
shoe13
Richard, Business Partner at Shoehealer checking work in progress, and ensuring exacting standards are met.
shoe14
shoe15
After final Sole Edge Trimming, a Liquid Stain is applied before a Hard Wax finish in a complementing colour.
shoe16
shoe17
shoe18
The shoes have the Uppers Hand Polished before they are sent back to a happy customer
The resoling of my Goodyear welted Church brogues has been completed and is they look superb!

The resoling of my Goodyear welted Church brogues has been completed and is they look superb!

Liked it? Take a second to support nick on Patreon!

19 Comments

  • gregoryiain 09/01/2014 at 19:28

    hmmm

    Reply
  • Jason 09/01/2014 at 19:33

    Great article, and great shoes.

    Reply
  • Brian in Alberta 09/01/2014 at 19:47

    Nice post and great shoes. I now have only one pair of boots with leather soles. They’re good for one more season and then I’ll retire them. After that, unless something special comes my way – as it did for you – I will only be buying rubber soles. It’s my understanding leather soles stayed in use after the introduction of rubber versions because the shoe manufacturers didn’t like having to buy soles from the rubber companies. And of course leather soles later became “traditional”.

    Reply
  • Jim 09/01/2014 at 22:58

    Great post and superb shoes.

    Reply
  • Ørjan Nordheim Skår 10/01/2014 at 10:30

    Great article! You are the only fashion blogger from Norway worth to follow! Great style!

    Reply
    • Well Dressed Dad 10/01/2014 at 10:32

      Many thanks, Ørjan! It’s good to know my efforts are appreciated!

      Reply
  • Scratch 10/01/2014 at 14:53

    Splendid work. They look fantastic!

    That sole is an absolute beauty.

    Reply
  • alabaster cheeks 10/01/2014 at 15:43

    You wont want to go back to those awful grensons again lol

    Reply
    • Well Dressed Dad 10/01/2014 at 16:14

      You’re not a fan of my most excellent country brogues? I’m astonished!

      Reply
  • A pair of brogues with my name on them | Well Dressed Dad 15/02/2014 at 10:35

    […] I’ve written about the next step for my lucky brogues, where they fly back to England for a some loving attention from the Shoe Healer in Nottingham. Read about how they were resoled in this post! […]

    Reply
  • Some fantastic footwear for the summer | Well Dressed Dad 18/02/2014 at 13:40

    […] How to improve upon brogue perfection […]

    Reply
  • Blog anniversary giveaway prize details! | Well Dressed Dad 24/02/2014 at 19:15

    […] who did such a marvellous job of resoling my lucky brogues is kindly giving away a 50 pounds gift certificate. They have around 2500 pairs of quality shoes in […]

    Reply
  • Iconic footwear: Paraboot Michael, classic French | Well Dressed Dad 30/03/2014 at 19:04

    […] How to improve upon brogue perfection […]

    Reply
  • Favorite items: A boy and his Red Wings | Well Dressed Dad 20/05/2014 at 12:26

    […] How to improve upon brogue perfection […]

    Reply
  • 6 DIY SOS tricks for your clothes 22/07/2014 at 15:44

    […] source: Well Dressed DadSave our […]

    Reply
  • Alan Gross 06/03/2018 at 14:22

    Interesting but you don’t mention the price of the repair.

    Reply
    • nick 06/03/2018 at 14:23

      As I recall about 60 pounds, though best to check. I had to pay international postage rates both ways as well.

      Reply

Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.